On high recommendation, we visited Belgrade. The former capital of Yugoslavia -and today the capital of Serbia - Belgrade has a conflicted past and an equally conflicted reputation. We spent three weeks in Belgrade trying our best to understand it, but we still came up short and left feeling even more perplexed than before we arrived. Most troubling, perhaps, is that Belgrade offers just about everything that we usually love about cities: a fascinating history, interesting architecture, incredible cuisine, delicious craft beer and passionate people. Someday, we’ll make a return trip to Serbia in hopes of connecting properly with the country.