Plovdiv, Bulgaria is nestled near rising hills and a vast expanse of rugged nature. The location makes it an excellent jumping off point for day trips into these beautiful landscapes.
The mountains were actually what lured us to plan a long stay during the month of October. We imagined tromping through a sea of yellow leaves on forested trails that led to epic viewpoints.
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The only problem was that we didn’t want to drive – and, as it turns out, that makes getting into nature really difficult in Bulgaria.
Determined to plan a DIY day trip from Plovdiv using public transportation, we zeroed in on the Rhodope Mountains.
Specifically, we looked at two famous sights, Bachkovo Monastery and Asen’s Fortress…plus the legendary trek that connects them.
Planning a Day Trip from Plovdiv to Rhodope Mountains
This excursion nearly ticked all of our boxes; we could see historic attractions and go hiking in the mountains in one fell swoop.
However, planning the specifics of our Plovdiv day trip wasn’t so easy. We struggled to find any consistently reliable information.
We couldn’t verify bus schedules. Trail reports were conflicting. We failed to find a single online source demonstrating that our plan was even possible.
But with the bits and pieces we did gather, we figured it was at least worth trying. We left our plan fluid and had back up options…and hoped for the best.
So – spoiler alert – when it all worked out exactly according to plan, we were actually a little bit surprised.
Now, we are sharing the details of our DIY excursion from Plovdiv to the Rhodopes so that you can spend less time planning and more time adventuring!
Rhodope Mountain Day Trip from Plovdiv: At a Glance
Before we get into the details, here is a short rundown of our itinerary.
- Bus from Plovdiv to Bachkovo (40 minutes): Direct public transportation.
- Visit Bachkovo Monastery (30 minutes): One of Bulgaria’s most important religious sites.
- Hike the Way of the Legion’s Trail (3-4 hours): Ancient route featuring spectacular views.
- Explore Asen’s Fortress (30 minutes): Historic point of defense with a breathtaking church perched on a cliff.
- Quick Look at Asenovgrad (30-60 minutes): Foothill city with many churches (and a fun craft beer bar for a post-hike pint).
- Train from Asenovgrad to Plovdiv (20 minutes): Cheap and easy return route.
Plovdiv Day Trip: Monastery, Hike, Fortress
The above breakdown makes it look like a breeze, right? Not so fast friends, this is Bulgaria, so there are definitely a few things to know before you set off.
Getting There: Plovdiv to Bachkovo Monastery
Figuring out how to get to Bachkovo from Plovdiv was the frustrating first step…because it doesn’t seem any routes officially go there.
Instead, you hop on a bus headed for Smolyan (Смолян in Cyrillic) and ask the driver to let you off at the monastery.
We found an online schedule for buses going to Smolyan, but it only listed a single evening departure.
Yet, digging through reviews we saw an 11:00am departure mentioned more that once. That was basically a windfall in this info-deprived blackhole.
So, we arrived at the Plovdiv Central Bus Station about a half hour before eleven. Once there, we located the bus (or rather minibus) with a sign in the front window designating the direction of Смолян.
Checking at the ticket office, they instructed us to buy them from the driver, which matched what we had read in some reviews.
However, when the driver showed up (about 5 minutes before departure), he only allowed those with a pre-purchased ticket on. Where or how they got them remains a mystery to us.
Fortunately, there was still four opens seats. Two for us and two for an Australian couple who got the same run-around from the ticket office. We boarded, purchased tickets (4 euro each) and paid in cash.
After a fairly quick (and unremarkable) drive we were let off just below the monastery (rather than in Bachkovo town 1 mile to the south). It’s safe to say we felt things were looking up at this point!
Our Take: The Bus is a Gamble
Figuring out how to ride this bus was a little aggravating – and it was compounded by unhelpful staff.
We made the deduction that those headed for one of the official stops are prioritized – and can buy tickets in advance. So, it becomes a bit of a risk if you just want to hop-on for the monastery.
The next bus was not departing for 2.5 hours, which would have derailed our plans. Fortunately, we were staying in Plovdiv for a month, so we had flexibility.
If our time was limited, we would have taken the train to Asenovgrad then splurged for a taxi to the monastery or joined a tour from Plovdiv (and skipped the hike).
Bachkovo Monastery
Ranking as the second-largest monastery in Bulgaria, the Bachkovo Monastery of the Dormition of the Theotokos is a cultural and historical landmark.
Its origins date to the year 1083 – and is renowned for blending Georgian, Byzantine and Bulgarian traditions.
From the spot where the bus dropped us off, it was a short, 10 minute walk along a shopping street (mainly vendors selling tourist tat), to the entrance gate.
Some sections require a ticket, but it is free to enter the complex and the two main churches.
The smaller Church of the Holy Mother of God (Sveta Bogoroditsa) was built in the early 1600s and the interior is exquisitely decorated with frescoes.
Highlights are the colorful murals, wooden iconostasis and the miraculous icon of the Virgin Mary (which is covered in silver).
Our Take: Worth a Look
We were eager to get started on our hike through the Rhodopes, but we absolutely believe it’s worth popping into the monastery for a quick look around.
Lunch: Picnic
In order to make the most of our time, we prepared a picnic lunch for our DIY day trip. There is a café at a monastery, but we didn’t want to chance it being closed.
We ate in the garden right outside the main gate with a view of the hills we were about to attempt to tackle. Which immediately reminded us of our next conundrum; actually finding the trail head.
Rhodope Hike: Bachkovo to Asen’s Fortress
Hiking through the Rhodope Mountains was the part that we were most looking forward to…but it was also our biggest question mark.
The Way of the Legions – also called the Asenovgrad-Bachkovo Trail – traces an ancient Roman road. The only problem is…online info is sparse and inconsistent.
First, it seems that the official start is in the town of Bachkovo. That said, it’s a nice 1-mile stroll north along the west side of the Chepelare River to reach it. (Do not walk along the main road).
Once we actually located the trailhead, we relaxed a little. The well-marked path dipped into shaded forests with colorful leaves, out to cliff’s edges and up-and-over a challenging summit.
The trail was in fairly good condition – with some washouts, rockfalls and overgrown sections (but none that we considered impassable).
In fact, we were impressed by how easy it was to follow. The trek mostly follows Route 86 below – and there are recently painted white-green-white striped markers showing the way.
We gauged this moderate hike at approximately 8.5 miles, with one challenging incline and one very steep and long descent. (Hiking poles would have definitely been helpful.)
It took us approximately 3 hours and 45 minutes to walk from the monastery to the fortress (which included time for photographs, water breaks and lingering at vistas).
Our Take: Better than Expected
Tackling an unfamiliar mountain trail with so little information had us a bit worried – and we were 100% ready to turn back and call a taxi if we felt it was too challenging.
But honestly, it was so much better than we expected! The trail condition was good. The markers were excellent. The scenery was exceptional.
Asen’s Fortress
A historic and strategic military outpost in the Rhodope foothills, this stronghold is a striking sight…and a fun place to explore.
The dramatic, medieval fort sits atop a cliff, offering sweeping views of the surrounding peaks and deep valley below.
The site had been used for thousands of years to guard the mountain pass, but was significantly expanded in 1231. Through its long history, it has been occupied by the Byzantines, Crusaders, Bulgarians and Ottomans.
The highlight is the 12th century, two-story Church of the Holy Mother of God (also called Holy Virgin Petrich), which seems to balance precariously close to the edge.
Tickets cost 4 euros (and 8 cents), which can be paid by card or cash. Once purchased, we were free to roam on our own and spent about 30 minutes doing just that.
We stepped inside to see the mural paintings – then climbed up the stairs to higher viewpoints. Each level revealed an impressive vantage point of the expansive scene.
Our Take: Check It Out
We easily could have skipped entering Asen’s Fortress, but felt it’s definitely worth checking out. Even though there isn’t that much to see, it’s a fantastic spot to end the official Way of the Legion’s!
Asenovgrad
Situated below the foothills, Asenovgrad is known for two things: a high concentration of Orthodox churches and wedding dress shops.
It is also the best way to get back to Plovdiv, with inexpensive trains regularly making the journey between the two cities.
The most direct route from Asen’s Fortress to Asenovgrad is a 20-minute walk downhill along a well-paved road. There is no sidewalk; we just stuck close to the edge with several other walkers.
We stopped a few times during the descent to look back toward the fortress. (The guardrail near the bend in the road offers the best view of the church clinging to the cliff.)
Once in town, we realized we had plenty of time before the next train, so we popped into Beer Shop KoShiBirimm and sipped a local Bulgarian brew!
Our Take: A Means to an End
The downhill walk from Asen’s Fortress to the train station in Asenovgrad is a little over 2 miles and takes about 45 minutes.
The beer store/bar, which is right on the most direct route, was a perfect pitstop and we were really pleased that they had local craft on tap!
Train to Plovdiv
When we arrived at the Asenovgrad Train Station, the ticket office was closed and the departure boards blank (but no one seemed concerned or surprised by this).
Sure enough, the modern, commuter-style train rolled up right on schedule. We bought our tickets on board from the conductor – 82 cents each – and were back in Plovdiv in less than 30 minutes!
Our Final Take: 10/10
For an adventure that began with so many uncertainties, it ended up being a stellar DIY day trip excursion!
The monastery was beautiful. The hike was gorgeous. The fort was intriguing. The beer was delicious.
And it was an affordable day out, too. The total cost – including transport and entry fees – was less than $10 per person.
DIY Day Trip from Plovdiv FAQs
If you are planning your own Rhodope Mountain day trip, you probably still have a few questions. We certainly did!
Can you do this Plovdiv Day Trip in Reverse?
Yes. We actually thought about this, but decided against it for a few reasons.
First, the grade between Asen’s Fortress and the summit is quite steep. We figured it would be better to tackle that on the downhill.
Second was the lack of transport options. With limited information, we thought it was better to start at the monastery, then make the hike to Asen, from where we could just walk into Asenovgrad.
Are there other Transportation Options?
We did hear of a summertime bus from Asenovgrad to Bachkovo. If that is true, it could be feasible to take the train from Plovdiv to Asenovgrad, then the local bus to the monastery.
This might take a little bit longer, but it would eliminate the uncertainty of getting a seat on the minibus to Smolyan. Otherwise, you could just join a guided tour from Plovdiv.
Anything Else to Know About the Rhodope Hike?
As mentioned, the trail was in much better condition than we expected, with a clear route and plenty of markers.
That said, you do need a good pair of hiking shoes. I would not have wanted to complete this hike in my everyday trainers.
You also need to carry plenty of water. We each had 1.5 liters and were out by the time we were leaving Asen’s Fortress. (They do sell water there.)
One last note: Make sure you follow the actual trail. Do not attempt to walk between the monastery and fort on the road; it is far too dangerous!
Map of Our Plovdiv Day Trip Destinations
Use this link for an interactive version of the map below.
Start planning your trip to Bulgaria! Search for the lowest airfares, the best accommodations and fun things to do…then start packing! Want additional advice? Head over to our Travel Planning Page and for country-specific information, take a look at our Travel Guides Page!
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- What To Do in Plovdiv in One Day
- Free Self-Guided Walking Tour: Plovdiv
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- Sofia Walking Tour – Free & Self-Guided
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