The Oltrarno district in Florence, Italy is one of our favorite places to explore on foot. Located south of the Arno River, the area is comprised of lush green spaces, inviting squares and gorgeous architecture.
We created this free, Self-Guided Oltrarno Walking Tour to help fellow travelers experience the best of the district – just like we did!
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During our trip to Florence, we stayed in Oltrarno. We eagerly sought out the nooks and crannies of the often overlooked neighborhood. We discovered historic sights and hidden gems – and visited landmark attractions, as well.
With this outlined self-guided walk, you will pop into churches, wander through garden landscapes and stroll down picturesque streets.
Although no stranger to tourists, Oltrarno can still feel a bit off the beaten path. When vacationing in Florence, visiting Oltrarno is an absolute must-do! In fact, this walk fits in perfectly on Day 2 of our 3 Day Florence Itinerary.
About Our Oltrarno Walking Tour
The Oltrarno sights to see are listed chronologically. For each attraction, we have included interesting information – plus, a pin drop so that you can easily get directions.
Keep in mind that you will need a wireless connection to utilize the maps. An international data plan for your phone, an eSim (for unlocked phones) or a WiFi Pocket Device are the best options.
The total distance is approximately 5.5 miles and our walking tour of Oltrarno can be completed in about 3-4 hours. Note that this walk includes some incline.
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Self-Guided Oltrarno Walking Tour
Ready to explore one of the best districts in Florence, Italy? Great! Grab those comfortable travel shoes you hopefully packed and let’s get going.
Note that we include several attractions along the route that can be entered (some are free, most require a ticket).
If you plan on visiting any of the sights, be sure to check opening days and hours. Then adjust your schedule to allow plenty of time to enjoy them.
#1 Florence Bridges Walk
MAP. Begin this walk with one of the best activities in Florence, Italy: A stroll along and across the Arno River.
Starting at Ponte alle Grazie, take in the different views from the best bridges in Florence. Next, walk west to the next four bridges: Ponte Vecchio, Santa Trinita, Carraia and Amerigo Vespucci.
After pushing through the crowds on Ponte Vecchio, pause for a moment to look at Ponte Santa Trinita (MAP). Built in the mid-1500s, it’s the oldest elliptic arch bridge in the world.
Not only historic, we believe Ponte Santa Trinita is ideal for watching the sunset. We gravitated here at dusk to catch the soft light illuminate the pastel-painted buildings that line the riverside. At Ponte Amerigo Vespucci (MAP), walk south into Oltrarno.
#2 Porta di San Frediano
MAP. Florence was once encircled by protective walls and ornate gates. Although most of the fortifications have been demolished, Porta San Frediano still stands.
The hulking, brick gate was built in the 1330s as the ‘Gateway to Pisa’. It has thick walls and heavy wooden doors, which are original – as are the iron rings (used to tether horses). A portion of the wall is also preserved in the small park next to the gate.
#3 Borgo San Frediano
MAP. From the grand gate, walk east on Borgo San Frediano. The narrow, atmospheric street is the main thoroughfare in the San Frediano neighborhood.
Roaming the length of Borgo is one of the best things to do in Oltrarno. Take your time and enjoy the sights and sounds.
The area is especially known for retaining a traditional vibe. Along the street, you will find a few of the best things in Florence, Italy – like boutique shops, hip cafes and locally-owned trattorias.
#4 Libreria Café La Cite
MAP. Need a little fuel for your Oltrarno walk? Even though we have just started, consider pausing at Libreria Café La Cite.
An oasis along bustling Borgo, La Cite ranks one of the best coffee shops in Florence, Italy. Stepping inside is more akin to visiting a friend’s house than entering a business.
Order a beverage, peruse the books on the shelf, find a quiet corner and take a moment to just relax in the tranquility of the bohemian space.
#5 Chiesa di Santa Maria del Carmine & Cappella Brancacci
MAP. The Church of Santa Maria del Carmine is one of the many famous churches in Florence. Although the exterior is rather mundane, the interior hosts some of the best-preserved frescoes in the city.
The frescoed Cappella Brancacci inside Santa Maria del Carmine Church was commissioned in the 15th century and completed over a span of 60 years. Over time, the frescoes have survived multiple renovations and even fires.
Now, through careful restoration, the Brancacci Chapel in Florence is once again an impressive display of vibrant colors. You can enter the chapel with a ticket.
#6 Piazza Santo Spirito
MAP. Santo Spirito is a hive of activity and one of our favorite squares in Florence. Cafes spill out in all directions, kids run in circles around the fountain and locals relax in the sunshine on the steps of the church.
#7 Basilica of Santo Spirito
MAP. The Santo Spirito Church in Oltrarno is a must-see! While starkly plain in appearance from the outside (the façade was never finished), the 320-foot-long structure ranks as one of the best examples of Renaissance architecture.
Brunelleschi designed the church in 1428 – some say it is his best work – but he passed away during construction and it wasn’t completed until 1487.
His visions, however, were followed and the interior is notably harmonious, with an emphasis on a perfectly proportioned geometrical plan.
The inside is decorated with 38 side chapels – and each one is adorned with notable artwork. That said, the most famous piece of art in Santo Spirito is the sculpted wooden Crucifix that Michelangelo carved at age 18.
Entry is free, but a ticket is required to tour the sacristy (where the Crucifix is displayed).
#8 Via Maggio, Oltrarno
MAP. Lined with some of the top art galleries and antique shops in Florence, Via Maggio is a delightful place to discover on a Self-Guided Oltrarno Walking Tour.
The street has long been associated with culture and creativity – so it is not surprising to find a plethora of artisan workshops along the route.
Additionally, noble families took up residence along Via Maggio. A few of their old palaces are still found here, such as the opulent Palazzo di Bianca Cappello at #26, which features a decorative façade (and is now a luxury hotel).
#9 Piazza della Passera
MAP. The small and quaint Passera Square is tucked deep in Oltrarno. Ringed by restaurants and cafes, it is a natural gathering place for both locals and tourists.
It also happens to be an excellent spot for a lunch (or gelato) break during your self-guided walk of Oltrarno. Fortunately for you, a few of our Top Places to Eat in Florence are located on Piazza Passera.
For a simple (yet incredibly satisfying) meal, we recommend ordering a classic Florentine sandwich from Schiaccia Passera. (The La Svampita is our go-to).
Alternatively, take a seat on the patio of 4 Leoni, where they serve sensational local dishes – including divine pasta meals.
Either way, save room for a scoop of gelato from Gelateria della Passera. We tried several different flavors here and they are all so good, we could never pick a favorite!
#10 Church of Santa Felicita
MAP. The Santa Felicity Church has a long history dating to the 2nd century. In fact, many believe it to be the second oldest church in Florence after San Lorenzo.
Santa Felicita was almost completely rebuilt in the 18th century – but several elements of the previous structure survived.
The Brunelleschi designed Capponi Chapel, which dates to the 15th century, ranks as one of the best chapels in Florence, Italy.
DETOUR: Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens
If you want to pause your self-guided walking tour of Oltrarno, now is an excellent time to visit the area’s landmark site: Pitti Palace (MAP).
A former Medici family residence, the palace has been renovated into a cultural institution. Five separate museums are located within the sprawling space – which can all be visited with a single ticket.
Your purchase also allows access to the grand Boboli Gardens, once the Medici’s private green space, and the Bardini Garden, which is #12 on our tour.
#11 Forte di Belvedere
MAP. The enormous Belvedere Fort was built in the late 1500s – both as a means of protection and to flaunt Florence’s stature and wealth.
The solidly constructed brick building sits prominently on a hill above Boboli Gardens and provides one of the best panoramic views of Florence. It’s free to visit, but closed during the winter.
#12 Villa Bardini Gardens
MAP. With fine vistas over the red rooftops, the enchanting Bardini Garden is one of the most beautiful places in Florence to see.
Situated on a hillside in Oltrarno, the location has been used as a green space since the 1200s. The Mozzi family owned the land for more than 300 years and continually enhanced the garden with ornamental statues, a grotto and planted flowers.
Highlights of Bardini Gardens are the elegant Baroque staircase and the Wisteria Tunnel when the flowers are in bloom! Ticket required if you didn’t tour Pitti Palace.
#13 Giardino della Rose
MAP. The fabulous Rose Garden is one of the famous attractions in Oltrarno…and it’s free! Boasting more than 350 species of roses, the fragrant grounds were created in 1865.
In addition to rose bushes, there are also lemon trees, a Japanese temple and a series of interesting statues. The hillside site is open year-round, but it’s most beautiful in May when the roses are blooming.
The nearby Giardino dell’Iris is another spectacular free garden, but it is only open for a few limited weeks during the spring.
#14 Basilica of San Miniato al Monte
MAP. Sitting on the highest hill in the city at the top of a steep staircase is the brilliant San Miniato al Monte.
It is free to tour the interior – which is just as marvelously embellished as the façade. With dazzling mosaics, historic monuments and a creepy crypt, it is well worth a look around.
The San Miniato Church complex is inclusive of a brick bell tower, an active monastery and the serene Cemetery of Porte Sante.
#15 Chiesa di San Salvatore al Monte
MAP. A modest church built in the Renaissance style in the 1500s (and renovated in the late 1800s), the Church of San Salvatore is one of the lesser-visited Oltrarno sights.
That said, it is worth taking a moment to step inside. According to rumors, it was Michelangelo’s favorite church in Florence, which he admired for its simplicity.
#16 Piazzale Michelangelo
MAP. Without a doubt, Piazzale Michelangelo is the place to go in Oltrarno for the best views of Florence!
There are two terraces connected by a grand staircase. The west-facing outlook offers a sublime panorama over the most famous landmarks in the city.
The square is dedicated to Michelangelo – and naturally, a bronze copy of The David stares over your shoulder as you admire the view.
Michelangelo Square is regularly touted as the best place in Florence for sunset – and we spent more than one evening here watching the spectacle.
Take a seat at the terrace café – or bring your own beverages and enjoy the view from the steps while listening to an array of entertaining street musicians.
#17 Rampe del Poggi and Porta San Niccolo
MAP. Piazzale Michelangelo is not the last stop on our walk in Oltrarno! From the viewpoint, take the stairs and paths that lead down to a 19th century Rampe del Poggi.
Designed to help reinforce and stabilize the hill, the multi-level fountain features arched grottos and dripping ponds.
At the base of the hill on the south bank of the Arno River is a 14th century tower, Porta San Niccolo.
Standing alone in Piazza Poggi, the defensive tower was once part of the city walls. For a small fee, you can climb to the top for terrific 360-degree views.
#18 Via di San Niccolo
MAP. Complete your Oltrarno walking route by circling back toward the heart of the district along the picturesque Via di San Niccolo.
The route takes you past Stefano Bemer Shoemaker, by residences with green shutters and to a quaint intersection surrounded by cafes, restaurants and gelato shops.
Take a seat at Enoteca Bevovino (MAP), one of the many cool bars in Oltrarno, and settle in to watch the passersby.
Alternatively find your way into the terrace garden sanctuary of Rifrullo Firenze (MAP), where you can sip an Aperol Spritz and enjoy a late afternoon aperitivo!
Continue on Foot in Florence
We have covered a lot of ground – but there is still so much more to see in this beautiful city. If you’re feeling motivated, cross the Arno River at Ponte Vecchio and embark on our Historic Florence Self-Guided Walk!
Self Guided Oltrarno Walking Tour Route Map
Use this Google Map for an interactive version of our Oltrarno Walking Tour map below.
Self-Guided Oltrarno Walking Tour Essentials
- Wear comfy shoes – I like these everyday sneakers.
- Bring your Camera – We use a DSLR Canon Rebel with 18-135mm lens.
- Be Prepared – Bring sunscreen, hat and a water bottle – and a good day pack.
- Charge up – Don’t forget a portable charger for a midday boost.
- Travel Insurance – If you haven’t insured your trip, check rates at World Nomads.
Start planning your trip to Italy! Search for the lowest airfares, the best accommodations and fun things to do…then start packing! Want additional tips? Head over to our Travel Planning Page for more advice – and for country-specific information, take a look at our Travel Guides Page!
More Tuscany Travel Guides
- Top Travel Tips for Florence, Italy
- What To Do in Pisa
- Things To See in Lucca
- A Day Trip to San Gimignano
- Things To Do in Siena
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