Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang: Slow Boat on the Mekong

I smiled to the captain – our only form of communication – and stepped onto the bow of the boat. I stood in the sunlight, surveying the solitude of our surroundings. We were traveling from Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang on a Slow Boat on the Mekong River. The trip was most certainly more about the journey than the destination. 

A herd of water buffalo cooled themselves in the muddy shallows near the riverbank. A flock of white birds occupied the tallest branches of a leafy tree. A waterfall, nearly concealed by thick forest, tumbled into the river. A lone butterfly the size of a sparrow fluttered by on the wind.

Puffy white clouds dotted a brilliant blue sky that was free of the smog that plagues the cities in SE Asia. Interwoven layers of lush green mountains stretched out before us, crisscrossing the deep valley carved by the Mekong River. This was the backdrop for our two-day cruise on a slow boat as we made our way from Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang.

In this Mekong River Travel Guide, we detail our adventure on the slow boat from Chiang Rai to Laos. 

---

 

Getting from Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang

In the days leading up to our departure, we were indecisive about how to get from Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang. The two cities are only 150 miles apart (roughly the same distance between New York and DC), but a quick and efficient route was eluding us (as transport is rarely either in Southeast Asia).

There is no direct Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang flight; to fly would have required a bus from Chiang Rai to Chiang Mai and then a flight on to Luang Prabang.

It is possible to take a bus from Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang. However, thought of a 15-hour ride – most likely in a non-air-conditioned bus – over bumpy, neglected roads sounded awful.

The third option involved a slow boat to Luang Prabang. Although this journey takes two days, there was something utterly alluring about floating down the Mekong River in a wooden boat.

 

A Slow Boat to Laos or Mekong River Cruise?

Once it was decided that we would take the slow boat to Laos, we still had to choose which one to take. The public slow boat to Laos or a Mekong River Cruise to Laos.

The public boat option better aligned with our travel style. Not only are we budget-minded, but we appreciate the challenge that comes with it.

However, this time around we just weren’t feeling up to the task. Blame it on the stifling heat or the horrible public boat reviews, we uncharacteristically opted for a Laos Mekong River Cruise. We booked our 2-day Laos slow boat online (more info below), then let them sort all the details of getting us from Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang.

---

 

Day One: Chiang Rai to Pakbeng

The day started with an early wake-up call and a groggy minivan ride through rural Northern Thailand as the sun started to peek out.

 

Getting from Chiang Rai, Thailand to Laos

Although the ride is often referred to as the ‘slow boat from Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang’ the boat does not depart from Chiang Rai, Thailand; the Mekong River slow boats to Luang Prabang leave from Huay Xai, a border town in Laos that is 65 miles east of Chiang Rai.

There is public transport between the two cities, but rather than organize a Chiang Rai to Huay Xai bus, cruises with Mekong Smile included a driver to transport us from Chiang Rai to Chiang Khong – where we would cross the border from Thailand into Laos.

Our driver promptly arrived at dawn. He spoke English, but we mostly rode in silence, watching as the towns and villages we passed stirred from their slumber. On porches, men lit small fires for the women to prepare breakfast. Monks walked barefoot and silent, collecting the morning alms. Later, children dressed in uniforms shuffled along the roadside to school.

We followed a meandering river past an empty floating market and traveled through the countryside. It was an endless landscape of patterned rice fields, interrupted only by an occasional karst mountain protruding from the farmland.

 

Chiang Khong, Thailand to Huay Xai, Laos Border Crossing

After an hour and 45 minutes, we arrived at the Thai border and Chiang Khong Border Crossing. The station was eerily vacant. At the early hour, we were the sole travelers crossing from Thailand into Laos. Our driver escorted us to an officer who collected our departure cards and branded our passports with the all-important exit stamp. Then he handed us tickets for the bus to the Huay Xai Border Crossing in Laos, pointing us in the right direction through the empty building.

We boarded the bus and, with only one other passenger, we crossed the Friendship Bridge into Laos and to the Huay Xai Immigration Office. Our cruise guide – Mr. Choy – was awaiting our arrival.

We handed our passports and $35 USD (each) to an officer at the ‘Visa On Arrival’ booth. While waiting approval, we met the four other passengers on our Laos Mekong River Cruise and exchanged the remainder of our Thai Baht to Laotian Kip.

Once we were officially permitted to enter Laos, Mr. Choy led us to a van that would take us to the docks to board the slow boat from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang. Our journey so far – from Chiang Rai to Huay Xai – had taken less than three hours.

 

Huay Xai to Pakbeng

Long, slender Laos slow boats lined the docks like sardines in a can. Busy crew members lugged boxes onto boats and teenage boys sat on the rooftops, waiting to aid in untangling the boats at departure.

We found our Huay Xai to Luang Prabang boat and Choy introduced us to the crew – a family of four, with one more on the way. Boarding from the bow, it was just big enough for a bench along with a small spirit house.

We passed through the door into the wheelhouse, which wasn’t enclosed and opened into a lounging area that had a retractable roof. Two steps down on brilliantly polished wooden floors led us into the belly of the boat. Four-top tables lined the sides back to a small bar, the toilets and the family’s private quarters. 

Within minutes of boarding, the captain was maneuvering us away from the dock. Our Mekong Laos boat trip had officially begun!

Still morning, clouds hung low in the sky, blanketing hilltops and nestling in valleys. By 9:00am, it was already humid, but as the boat motored down the Mekong River, a cool breeze circulated through the open windows.

Choy apprised us of the itinerary for our slow boat Huay Xai to Luang Prabang trip. Our two-day voyage included two stops in riverside villages, a short visit at a cave and an overnight stay at the half-way point town of Pakbeng.

We fell into easy conversation with our fellow shipmates. A British couple on an extended honeymoon through Southeast Asia and an American father-and-son traveling for the first time together. We swapped stories, shared tips and sat in comfortable silence as we floated downstream. 

Whether we were chatting at a table, lounging on mats or standing on the bow, we were engrossed in the river scenes that passed by like a Mekong documentary.

Choy provided the narrative filled with facts and interesting details about Laos. He pointed out temples and farms, named a variety of tree species and showed us where both banks of the Mekong River became Laos, no longer representing the border with Thailand.

We witnessed fishermen in wooden canoes tending to nets, children splashing at the river’s edge below their ramshackle villages, golden temples peeking through hillside trees and taxi speedboats zipping upriver. It was surreal. Humbling. Peaceful.

 

Mekong River Village: Ban Houy Pha Lam

Within a couple of hours, we arrived at the village of Ban Houy Pha Lam – the first stop on our Mekong River slow boat trip. We followed Choy up a muddy slope into the quiet community of wooden, stilted houses and roaming chickens. As Choy dictated a brief history of the town – a town that just two years ago had no electricity – a group of teenage boys passed us by, ignoring our presence.

We moved further into the village, where pigs, dogs and goats wandered freely. Curious children peered at us intently through dark doorways and from behind trees. Villagers bathed in the clean – but not potable – water that is piped into small platforms. The relatively new source of water creating public squares of sorts. Houses in the village don’t have running water, yet – quite perplexingly – satellite dishes and mobile phones were prevalent.

Similar to small villages around the world, there was a school, a community gathering building and a rustic mini-market. It was housed in a wooden shack and sold basic individual necessities – like toilet paper, flour, sugar, oil and soap – that were broken out from larger economy packs. 

 

Afternoon on the Mekong River Slow Boat

Back on board, we continued our Huay Xai to Luang Prabang slow boat cruise. Prepared and waiting for us was a scrumptious lunch of classic Laos noodle dishes and fried chicken drumettes made by the captain’s family. After the filling meal, we resumed our observation of the simple, but fascinating, life along the Mekong.

 

Pakbeng, Laos

We arrived in Pakbeng, Laos – the halfway point in our journey – with plenty of light left in the day. Everyone scattered to their respective hotels, as none of us booked the same one, and rejoined Choy a half hour later. He then showed us around the town. It seemed to exist solely for the purpose of accommodating travelers taking the Huay Xai to Luang Prabang slow boat.

The main road is a cluster of simple guesthouses and restaurants. Kids, dogs and chickens played in the streets and couples stood in the late afternoon shade playing badminton. At the top of the street, Choy guided us through the local produce market. Here women sold fresh vegetables, herbs and rat-on-a-stick from blankets spread in a row on the ground.

We walked to the town’s small temple, which was slightly faded, but still striking in detail. Choy shared more about Buddhism, telling us about when he was a novice monk and how all males are expected to don the saffron robes for a period of their lives. Two young novice monks, probably not yet teenagers, watched us from the temple window but disappeared when it was time to begin chanting.

Back on our own, we wandered through Pekbang to the riverside Peace Bar that has the reputation of being the one in town. Before we had even descended the steps, the bartender was handing us shots of local Lao Lao whiskey, which we would later learn is a custom in Laos.

We were the only patrons in the outdoor bar, perhaps due to it being shoulder season or the early hour. We chased our shots with a round of beers and bobbed our heads to the cliché Bob Marley soundtrack.

Next, we retraced our steps to one of Choy’s recommended restaurants for dinner. Greeted with another round of Lao Lao, we sipped this one slowly while waiting for our traditional Laos meal of chicken and bamboo shoots.

---

 

Day 2: Pakbeng to Luang Prabang

We had an 8:00am departure on Day 2 of our slow boat Mekong cruise. The sky was mostly clear with a just a few wispy clouds clinging to mountaintops.

Across the river from the docks, two elephants from a nearby sanctuary were getting a morning bath. The boat’s retractable roof was open when the captain steered us away from the Pakbeng docks and continued our downriver Mekong journey by boat to Luang Prabang. 

 

Mekong River Village: Ban Kok Eak

When we docked in Ban Kok Eak, we were greeted by townspeople waiting for another boat to take them to a market. One man carried a small squealing pig in a bag, hoping to sell it that day. The children that had been playing in the river ran ahead of us. One small boy stopping often to launch rocks from his homemade slingshot with incredible precision.

The kids led us into a village that was bigger than the one we had visited the previous day. Hmong (Highland) people live in the village and Choy told us of their unique alphabet and courting customs. One of which involves kidnapping a wanted bride…a frightening tradition that is now frowned upon, but still occurs.

An elderly woman watched us from her doorway as we passed her house. She smiled and posed – just like the children – to have her picture taken and then wanted to see her image on the screen of our devices.

Another woman sat on a low stool stitching a pattern for a dress while young girls stood around her looking on. Children appeared holding bracelets for sale and young mothers hurried to display handmade scarves and bags, in hopes we would buy one.

 

Floating down the Mekong River

After another delicious on-board lunch, I stepped onto the bow of the ship. I marveled at the captain’s skill as he navigated through rapids. It was rainy season, which meant the landscape was lush, but the river was swollen. It moved swiftly downstream, often carrying natural debris like large tree trunks along with it.

There is no formal training for slow boat captains; the trade is passed down from father to son. Captains must know every rock on the Mekong in order to safely transport passengers from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang. Our captain maneuvered the boat effortlessly. 

Although our eyes had been glued to the water for the past two days, we hadn’t tired of the scenery. Every bend in the river, every cloud in the sky, every fisherman in a canoe captivated us.

We sensed that the river has remained untouched for centuries, but noted that changes are soon coming. Train tracks are being laid. Bridges are being built. Plans are in the works for dams to stop the natural Mekong River flow.

While the changes are touted as bringing progress to the area, we can’t help but wonder how that will alter the landscape and affect the people whose livelihood is dependent on the Mekong.

 

Buddha Cave, Laos

As our boat headed east, green hills gave way to rocky karsts. The craggy monoliths a striking contrast to the rolling hills and tree-covered mountains of our journey so far. Inside many of the rock formations are hollowed caves. Pak Ou Caves (Buddha Cave) – of which there is an upper and lower cave – has been visited by river boats for centuries, including ours today.

In ancient times, the lower caves were used as a place to offer sacrificed animals to the river spirit. In the 16th century, the cave was transformed into a temple and now more than 1,000 Buddha statues, brought for good luck by believers, reside in the lower cave.

The upper cave is accessed by a steep staircase and has a door, as monks at one time lived inside. We walked the depth of the dank cave, using our phones as flashlights, to the end where Buddha statues stood on altars. 

 

Storm on the Mekong

For most of our trip, we had evaded the rain. When we set sail from the caves, however, a black cloud was following us and there was no way to avoid this downpour.

Whipping wind blew huge drops of rain into both sides of the boat. We hauled our bags away from the edges and positioned ourselves in the center for stability as the captain calmly steered us closer to shore. The fast-moving storm quickly diminished visibility. The mountains we saw so clearly a few minutes before were shrouded by a deluge of water. 

The captain was focused, but unfazed by the sporadic weather. His entire life has been spent on the Mekong. Just as rapidly as the storm approached, it dissipated. A few minutes later as the captain docked the slow boat in Luang Prabang, the sun was shining again!

---

 

Tips for your Trip from Chiang Rai, Thailand to Luang Prabang, Laos

We have detailed our experience on the 2-Day Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang Slow Boat. It provided not only a mode of transport between the two cities, but also an unforgettable travel experience.

Unfortunately, the same cruise and company are no longer available. Don’t worry, there are other ways of getting from Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang! 

 

Luxury Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang Cruise 

Many companies (like this one) offer an excursion on a luxury Mekong River cruise from Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang. Each boat tour offers package deals for a single day or multiple day trips. 

 

Public Slow Boat Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang Route

It is possible to travel from Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang via bus and public boat. It won’t make stops in villages or at the caves and there is no provided lunch.

Your accommodation can help arrange this trip and answer questions about the public Mekong slow boat to Luang Prabang. 

 

Where To Stay in Pakbeng, Laos

Travelers who opt to take the slow boat to Luang Prabang from Chiang Rai will likely make a stop in Pakbeng. For the overnight stay, it is best to make your hotel reservations in advance. 

During our stop in Pakbeng, we stayed at DP Guesthouse. Our room was small, but sufficient with a large shower and air conditioning. Free Wi-Fi and breakfast were available in the ground floor open-air cafe. 

There are many Pakbeng Hotels to choose from. These top-rated hotels (based on guest reviews) may be what you’re looking for. The Sanctuary, BKC Villa and Mekong Riverside Lodge. 

 

What To Bring on the Mekong River Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang Boat

We have just a few final tips for traveling from Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang by boat. You can find all of our advice on our dedicated Travel Packing page. For now, grab your Free Packing Checklist!

 

Travel Camera with Zoom Lens

We’re certain you’ll be snapping tons of photos during your Chiang Rai Luang Prabang boat trip. Rather than relying on your phone, upgrade to an actual camera for high quality photos. We travel with a Canon Rebel and use a 18-135mm lens. 

 

The Right Travel Shoes

We brought both flip flops and versatile sneakers on our Mekong Slow Boat cruise – and we are glad we had both. Read our tips on the best travel shoes for your trip!

 

Durable Day Bag

While our luggage was always at hand on our Mekong River boat cruise, we kept day bags close by with all of our necessities and everyday travel essentials!

 

Trip Insurance

If you haven’t already obtained travel insurance for your Mekong River boat trip, consider traveling protected with World Nomads.

 

Mekong Travel Planner 

As you make reservations for your trip, staying organized is essential. We highly recommend using our Travel Planning Printables that are great for keeping all the details sorted! 

 

Start planning your trip to Laos! Search for the lowest airfares, the best accommodations and fun things to do…then start packing!  Want more travel advice? Head over to our Travel Planning Page for more tips on traveling – and for country-specific information, take a look at our Travel Guides Page!

 

 

Pin it! See all of our travel pins on our JetSetting Fools Pinterest Board.