Visiting Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia had long been something we wanted to experience. The images of tumbling waterfalls streaming into teal blue pools was burned into our minds.
Even though we were visiting Croatia in winter, we knew we had to see these famous waterfalls for ourselves. So, we planned our Plitvice Lakes winter visit in mid-March as we traveled from Split to Zagreb.
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Traveling From Split to Plitvice Lakes in Winter
The bus ride from Split, Croatia to Plitvice Lakes took us along the stunning coastline, past Trogir and north to Zadar.
Then we turned inland and the sky turned dreary. Three o’clock in the afternoon looked more like six and cold air was permeating the windows.
Getting closer to the snow-capped mountains that had for so long been in the distance, city life gave way to rural surroundings.
We passed sheep, llamas, cattle and ostrich. Then we passed patches of snow. We had not observed snow in the forecast when planning our Plitvice lakes Croatia winter visit.
On our arrival, the Plitvice Lakes weather was dismal. Snow covered the hills and my mind was racing trying to calculate exactly how many layers I could pile on myself for warmth.
It was going to be slightly chillier than we had expected, but we were committed to staying two full days at Plitvice Lakes.
Visiting Plitvice Lakes National Park in Winter
The following day, we woke to overcast skies, which had us dragging our feet. We pulled on multiple layers, hoping they would keep us warm.
After a 15 minute walk from our accommodations, we were standing at Plitvice Lakes Entrance 1, where a large tour group cluttered the ticket windows.
Our Plitvice winter visit fell within the off-season pricing. The cost of our Plitvice Lakes tickets two-day park pass was about $15 each, which is heavily discounted from the peak.
When it was our turn to pay our Plitvice Lakes entrance fee, we requested the two-day pass. The seemingly puzzled attendant bluntly replied, “But the Plitvice Upper Lakes are closed.”
Closed? What do you mean the Upper Lakes are closed?! I felt like Clark Griswold arriving to Walley World. How had we missed this very important detail about Plitvice winter visits?
I had read about the possibility of ferry boats not running, but assumed there were Plitvice Lakes walking routes that led to both the Lower and Upper Lakes.
Evidently, I was wrong. My disappointment was obvious. Kris just shrugged, “OK, we still want the two-day pass to see the Lower Lakes.”
NOTE: Plitvice Lakes Tickets can now be purchased in advance. See below for more details.
Plitvice Winter Visit without Upper Lakes
Feeling defeated and with my shoulders slumped, we walked through the Plitvice entrance. I kept my eyes on the ground, brooding over the unsatisfactory news.
When we approached the railing, I finally looked up and was left speechless at the sight before us: Veliki Slap (Big Waterfall).
Across the canyon, five streams of water tumbled over the edge of a cliff into aqua colored pools, which then cascaded in shorter falls into deeper pools.
Even with the grey skies, the spectacle was breathtaking and my downtrodden demeanor was doing a flip-flop.
Below us I could see the Plitvice Lake trails of planked pathways that wind through the Lower Lakes and I was thrilled how close we could get to the water.
With only a slight tinge of disappointment left, we set off to explore the Plitvice Lakes waterfalls!
Our Plitvice Lakes Tour
The park is designed to allow guests to get up close and personal at lake level. We began our self-guided Plitvice tour on the main path that descended quickly to the water.
Throughout the park, Plitvice trails follow the water’s edge. There are four lower lakes (Kaluderovac, Novakovica Brod, Gavanovac and Milanovac) connected by streaming and tumbling waterfalls.
The lakes and waterfalls were created by the natural phenomenon of karst hydrography, which is explained best on the park’s website.
While I do find scientific explanations to be interesting, the visual sight was far too distracting to be able to fully comprehend it.
Plitvice Lakes was declared a national park in 1949 (Croatia’s first) and designated a UNESCO Heritage site in 1979.
It was quite evident that it was still the Plitvice Lake winter season, with only a few flowers, budding plants and birds signaling the coming of spring.
Bare tree limbs and exposed rocks surrounded by intensely colored rushing water added a contrasting element to the scene.
Perhaps not the postcard picture that lured us there, the one major upside of our Plitvice National Park winter visit was that the area was practically void of crowds.
Since we had two days’ time on our side, we explored slowly, stopping to take (way too many) Plitvice Lakes photos!
Plitvice Lakes Hiking Trails
On our second day visiting Plitvice, we were energized by the bright blue skies and made our way to the park shortly after opening.
We retraced our steps around the Lower Lakes, appreciating how the scenery changed under the sun’s rays.
In addition to the paths that wind through the park at water level, there are also Plitvice Lakes National Park hiking paths that follow the top edge of the canyon on both sides.
We got a birds’ eye view of the waterfalls and lakes below from the many lookout points. Then followed a western trail across the top of Veliki Slap, taking in the views from platforms on both sides.
Although we are still disappointed that we didn’t get to see the Upper Lakes or the region in full bloom, there were several perks to visiting Plitvice Lakes National Park in the winter.
Without the crowds we were able to slow down and thoroughly appreciate the natural splendor!
Photos From Our Plitvice Lakes Winter Visit
Are you ready to Visit Plitvice Lakes now? See below for all the pertinent information for your Croatia Itinerary!
Plitvice Lakes Guide & General Information
Here is a quick guide of Plitvice Lakes information for your visit to the park any time of year.
Plitvice Lakes Opening Hours
Plitvice Lakes National Park is open every day of the year. However, times vary by season. Check the official website for current hours of operation.
Plitvice Lakes Tickets
Park visitors no longer need to queue at the gates to buy tickets. Instead, you are directed to book online for specific dates and times and are available for 1 and 2-day passes.
In fact, Plitvice NP tickets can only be purchased at the gate if there are available time slots. See the official website for the current Plitvice price of admission.
Best Time to Visit Plitvice Lakes, Croatia
In the summer, it can be hot and the crowds can be intense, but the scenery is lush and colorful. A Plitvice Lakes winter visit means the Upper Lakes will be closed, but there will be fewer crowds and a less expensive admission price.
If visiting Plitvice Lakes in the spring, the weather could be unpredictable, but there will still be lighter crowds and shoulder-season pricing.
A Plitvice Lakes autumn visit means changing leaves, which can add to the scenery. We re-visited Plitvice in the Autumn when the Upper Lakes were open and were not disappointed!
Plitvice Lakes Map
Use this Google Map to find your way around Plitvice Lakes, Croatia.
How To Get to Plitvice Lakes, Croatia
Plitvice Lakes is easily accessible via organized tour, private guide, personal vehicle or public transportation.
If self-driving to Plitvice Lakes, the main parking lot is across the street from Entrance 1. There is also a bus route from Zagreb to Split that passes through Plitvice Lakes.
There are two Plitvice Lakes bus stops – Entrance 1 and Entrance 2. If staying at Plitvice Lakes overnight, confirm which stop is closer to your accommodation.
It is possible to use public transportation for a Day Trip to Plitvice Lakes – or even stopping for a few hours while traveling from one city to another (ie: Zagreb to Split or Zadar).
In high season, it is essential to purchase onward tickets in advance or immediately upon arrival, as buses do get full.
There are lockers at the park that are free to use, as well as a communal, unattended luggage storage area at Entrance 1. Ask for keys from the Plitvice Lakes National Park Information Office.
Book a Private Transfer from Split to Zagreb with a Plitvice Lakes Tour!
Split to Plitvice Lakes
Check bus timetables from Split to Plitvice Lakes on BusCroatia.
Book the popular and highly-rated 12-hour tour from Split to Plitvice National Park.
Zagreb to Plitvice Lakes
Check bus timetables from Zagreb to Plitvice Lakes on here.
Book an organized and top-rated day trip from Zagreb to Plitvice.
Zadar to Plitvice Lakes
Check bus timetables from Zadar to Plitvice Lakes on BusCroatia.
Book a full-day tour from Zadar to Plitvice NP.
Where To Stay in Plitvice Lakes, Croatia
Although Kris referred to our adventure as ‘Plitvice Lakes Camping,’ we had actually booked a studio apartment at a guesthouse in the village of Rastovaca.
We have found that staying in Airbnb Apartments is often less expensive than hotel rooms – with the added benefit of a kitchen and more space.
However, for those who prefer staying in traditional accommodations, there are a few Plitvice National Park Hotels to choose from.
Pro Tip: There is one small convenience store at Plitvice Lakes Entrance 1 that has basic items, but no grocery store within walking distance. We brought our own food for our 3-night Plitvice stay.
Before You Go to Plitvice Lakes NP
- Don’t forget to pack a pair of lightweight and comfortable walking shoes for your trip. I (Sarah) have traveled with these trainers by New Balance. Kris prefers wearing trail shoes by Merrell.
- We’re certain you’ll be snapping tons of photos during your Croatia Trip! Rather than relying on your phone, upgrade to an actual travel camera. We don’t go anywhere without our Canon Rebel.
- Whether you travel with a backpack or a suitcase, you will also want a great day bag to organize and secure all of your everyday travel items!
- If you haven’t already obtained travel insurance for your Vacation to Croatia, consider traveling protected with World Nomads.
Also Visiting Krka Waterfalls? Excellent! Read our guide for the Best Krka Waterfall Trip!
Start planning your trip to Croatia! Search for the lowest airfares, the best accommodations and fun things to do…then start packing! Want additional advice? Head over to our Travel Planning Page for more tips and for country-specific information, take a look at our Travel Guides Page!
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